Back Additional Resources. Back Homeowners. Back Professionals. Quick Links Quick Links. Back Quick Links. Back About GAF. Find A Contractor. Find this product in:. Data Sheet. Flush with running water for a minimum of 15 minutes. Apply sterile eye wash to remove foreign bodies from the eye s. If respiratory tract is irritated, remove from exposure. If irritation persists, seek medical attention. Unusual Fire Hazards: Fiberglass insulation is a non-flammable product.
Caution should be used when working close to the facing or packaged material with open flame. Chemicals in plastic packaging products that do not present a health hazard under normal conditions may be released during a fire. Toxic fumes and gases that may result from incomplete combustion include carbon monoxide, hydrogen chloride and low-level cyanides. This fast-paced action leads to adverse effects for you and your property. After the solar panel installation, roof avalanches will be a common occurrence if snow is thick.
Snow Guard installation will help you avoid property damage. Snowfall can injure your family and other pedestrians. Repairs and liability can be very expensive for homeowners in winter climates. You can only control how the snowfalls. Snow guard for solar panels are your answer.
We provide and install snow guards that act as a barricade to roof avalanches. The effects of snow on solar panels during a brutal winter are hard to ignore. The snow will not just slide from the roof. It will pull gutters apart, burst pipes, and in the worst case, injure you, a pet, or a loved one. Or sometimes, an unlucky neighbor- personal injury law services are not cheap in New York and New Jersey.
Snow guard for solar panels is your answer. Guards come in two forms, the pad-style, and pipe-style types. The former acts as a brake, helping release the snow to a manageable level. I believe radiant barriers work as advertised. In simple words would I have to replace my roof more often that my neighbor that does not have the radiant barrier product? Shingles are designed to handle temperatures well above these levels. Here is an article from last year. Foam insulation is great for the right applications.
Comparing foam insulation to radiant barrier is kind of like comparing an umbrella to a jacket. Foam is for conductive heat and radiant barrier is for radiant heat. Different type of heat flow requires different types of products to manage them.
Foam is similar to other types of insulation with a typical r-value of per inch open cell foam. This is similar to other insulation products regarding r-value but foam has an advantage in the ability to seal up cavities and prevent convective looping of air within the cavity.
I think that you misunderstand some aspects of thermodynamics. If you have a single layer radiant barrier, it will reflect some heat out, but will get hot as a result. A multi-layer insulation, like eshield with an R-value of This product is carried by Costco, counts for the tax credit, and it the most effective product for the money. Additionally, the thickness of the insulation is irrelevant to the R-value. Have you ever seen compressed fiberglass sheets with R-values appraoching R?
Do you think that they pull that number out of a hat? What about space suits? Are they 20 feet thick to accomplish the efficiency that they have? Engineers are careful to improve on technology in packaging to give the consumer a better product in a tighter package….
Thanks for the comments. First, you need to get some facts straight. US Patent 6,, HERE is the flyer from a roll I bought. Close Up of the details here. Wear a sweatshirt in a snowstorm and tell me that R-Value is irrelevant. R Per inch — Currently does not exist. A 1 inch thick vacuum panel has an R-value of about 45 per inch and products like AeroGel reach R per inch. These are the best as of now.
I too have heard that radiant barriers could possibly hurt the underside of your roof because the underside is not built to withstand the extra heat. Not sure if this is correct or not. Does anyone know? Also would a spray on radiant barrier make any difference to the underside? I have had a radiant barrier Parsec in my home for about 13 years now and it has worked very well and I have achieved all the comfort and financials benefits they advertised.
I installed this myself on the vertical walls over the frame and foam board, under the brick and in the attic under the rafters from the soffit vents up to the roof ridge vents. I recommend the thin foil radiant barrier and I am a very happy customer.
There is much debate over the R value and benefits of open cell and closed cell foam, but I was duly impressed. Foam also provides the added benefit of preventing uncomfortable room drafts and dust infiltration into the home. Thanks for the great question. My next home will be full foam encapsulated with a sealed attic! The absolute best structure would be to build it like a giant refrigerator and wrap it in foil. This would provide radiant barrier as the first line of defense to reflect radiant heat and to keep the outer surface temperatures closer to ambient temperature.
Then, the foam, or any type of insulation has less conductive heat to deal with since you have significantly reduced the temperature difference between the inner and outer surface. The larger or smaller this number dictates how much heat flows in or out in combination with the r-value of the actual insulation.
Just a note, passive-solar design is great, but if the structure is shaded there is no big difference. Sealed attics are great!! For new construction they are a no-brainer. Moving the ductwork inside the thermal envelope, reducing air infiltration and reducing AC tonnage more then pay for the upgrade cost over time. The only downside is the possibility of oversizing AC equipment and not getting enough dehumidification.
Then, you can have moisture problems not enough dehumidification — the law of unintended consequences. As for the foam type? Under metal roofs? If you have a roofing system that can provide and air space, then you can install a radiant barrier below the roof, but above the decking. Normally, this is done with a batten system or using furring strips. Coming from the top down here are the layers: roof, airspace, AtticFoil Brand Radiant Barrier, waterproofing membrane, deck, spray foam to bottom of deck and then the sealed attic.
What do I need to fix this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. The result is a warmer floor, virtually no moisture, and smells from the crawl space. Here are a couple of sites I found on this. Comparing foam insulation to radiant barrier is similar to comparing a jacket to an umbrella.
They really serve two different functions. Foam or any other type of insulation is to slow down conductive heat flow. As far as foam insulation specifically? I love it for most applications when you need to also create a good air seal. The only challenge with foam is that it CAN be pretty tricky to install. Considering an unvented attic with open cell foam insulation to a depth of 4 inches against the underside of the ceilings, followed by air space of about 1. In other words the foam insulation is the first line of defense against outside heat and the radiant barrier is the second line of defense.
Will that work? I live in Houston. I think this is the wrong approach — especially for Houston. Think of your home as a refrigerator sitting in the hot sun. Putting radiant barrier on the inside of a foam non-vented attic will have a minimal effect. Try to get the foil to the outside. I have a 20 x 30 x 12 workshop with a metal roof on top of wood rafters. I have no plans of putting an inside ceiling. Is there a specific way I should consider insulating the roof?
Are you making it a conditioned space? If you just want to make it more comfortable think shade then install just like a regular Radiant Barrier Attic Installation — In addition, I would do the walls that catch direct sun too! Can this be prevented? Radient barriers are effective in keeping heat out during the summer. Are they effective in keeping warm air in during the winter time? Mold and mildew are not caused by radiant barrier.
Wet insulation can create mold. If you can prevent the water vapor from condensing then there is usually never an issue. How effective would the Prodex foam layered with aluminum foil — be as a floor insulator over a crawl space? Will the Prodex work as an effective insulator keeping floors from getting cold in the winter we have some 40F weather and hot in the summer? Other than that goal, there is not really an additional benefit of adding AtticFoil radiant barrier below the home, since there is no radiant heat source other than heat emitting from your home in the winter.
Also, just like ANY other installation, you need to make sure there is an air gap on at least one side of the foil, preferably the side facing the radiant heat source. The roof decking has the radiant barrier on the bottom which will be a waste as we are spraying 4 inches of closed cell foam r-7 per inch on it. We wish there was a way to preserve this radiant barrier and hang something below the decking to spray foam on but that becomes problematic.
Our thought was to attach the new radiant barrier to the bottom of the rafters before the drywall is installed. Clearly, we are trying to get the most efficient results available and wanted some perspective. Since the tile roof is on and there in no way we can undo that, we are undecided what will be the best avenue for the most efficient home. Many of them say a radiant barrier on the bottom of the rafters is fine etc… Others say there is no need for a radiant barrier as we are spraying foam etc…which is very strange as they work in different ways.
I realize this is somewhat complex and would like an opportunity to speak with you to clarify. I own one side of a duplex condominium. If it is NOT divided, would there still be a benefit to installing a radiant barrier just on my side?
Can you provide more information on this space? What type of ventilation is up there? These can all play a factor in how the foil should be installed and how it will perform to relieve the heat load. Please send more info.
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